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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.